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The unfinished road between Puerto de Mogán and Veneguera beach now marks the high tide line of rampant resort building in Gran Canaria. Veneguera is now protected and is a beacon of hope to ecologists fighting to protect the island from further development.
Drive down the 3.5 km track from remote Veneguera village to the beach and you can see why the hotel companies wanted to concrete Veneguera valley. It starts as an idyllic rural valley full of banana, mango and papaya plantations before flattening out into a wide, flat-bottomed barranco with a beach at its mouth. Veneguera is a bit like Puerto Rico without the steep sides; The perfect place to build a new resort.
Alex Says: Ecologists won the battle for Veneguera, although the vast finca in the valley is still majority owned by Lopesan, the island's biggest hotel and construction company.
Veneguera beach is 370 metres long and sheltered by rock outcrops at each end. It's mostly colourful rounded pebbles although patches are dark volcanic sand build up at either end during the calm summer months. Taken on its own, Veneguera beach isn't all that attractive but it is Gran Canaria's biggest pristine beach and the water is calm and clear. It's best to visit in late spring when the valley is at its greenest and full of flowers.
Veneguera is a nudist beach although most of the Canarians who camp and BBQ here keep their clothes on. Head to the west end of the beach if there are textiles by the parking area.
To reach Veneguera beach, first drive inland from Puerto de Mogán until you pass Pueblo de Mogán. Then take the left fork and you are on the spectacular GC 200 road that winds all the way to Agaete in the north-west. Veneguera village is about 10 km past the fork. You can get as far as the village on a Line 38 bus from Puerto de Mogán but be prepared for a long walk down the valley; You can't count on lifts because there's hardly any traffic on the beach track.
The track between village and beach is currently in good condition (July 2015) and any car will do the trip. However, be aware that the valley runs with water after rain and that sections of track are often washed away. Hire car companies won't appreciate having to come and rescue you and your insurance won't cover off-road damage.
Lex Says: If you visit the area in the morning, it's worth going a couple of kilometres past the Veneguera turnoff on the GC 200 to see the psychedelic rocks at Fuente de los Azulejos. Have a juice at the shack as it's made with sun-blasted local fruit and is delicious.
Walk east along the coast from the three palm trees by the car park and you get to the remnants of Veneguera's old fruit jetty. The road to it has crumbled away, but a chunk of the stone jetty is still in place. Only jump off it when the water is calm; Veneguera is a long way from help and there's no mobile phone reception.
